A Luxurious Dive into the Golden Age of Two-Tone Elegance
Historical Context: The Submariner’s Legacy Meets Two-Tone Flair
The Rolex Submariner is perhaps the most iconic dive watch ever created. Introduced in 1953, it was the first wristwatch to be water-resistant to 100 meters and quickly became the gold standard in aquatic tool watches. But by the late 1980s, Rolex began exploring new territory—not just technically, but aesthetically. Enter the reference 16613, introduced in 1988, which added a luxurious twist to a utilitarian legend.
Nicknamed the “Bluesy”, the 16613 was among the first Submariners to combine 904L stainless steel with 18k yellow gold, wrapped in a sunburst blue dial and bezel that would become instantly recognizable. It was a bold step for Rolex—a way to retain the dive watch’s ruggedness while infusing it with elegance and visual drama. In many ways, the 16613 represents the bridge between vintage Rolex tool watches and the modern luxury sports watch era.
Design: The Magic of Blue and Gold
Let’s not mince words—this is a stunning watch. The deep sunburst blue dial of the 16613 is hypnotic, changing from electric cobalt to dusky navy depending on the light. It shimmers and radiates sophistication without ever being ostentatious. Paired with the matching blue aluminum bezel insert, the watch feels like summer on the Mediterranean, bottled and strapped to your wrist.
The bi-metal construction—alternating polished 18k yellow gold and brushed stainless steel—feels timeless rather than flashy. It’s that rare blend of warmth and resilience. Gold accents on the crown, bezel edge, and center links elevate the watch without compromising its sporty DNA.
The applied hour markers, surrounded in gold, and the signature Mercedes hands lend the dial depth and dimension. And unlike modern Rolexes with maxi cases and Cerachrom bezels, the 16613 still carries that classic 40mm Oyster case with slightly slimmer lugs and more vintage proportions—making it exceptionally comfortable and well-balanced on the wrist.
Technical Specifications: Robust Where It Counts
- Case Size: 40mm Oystersteel
- Material: 904L stainless steel with 18k yellow gold
- Movement: Caliber 3135, Rolex’s in-house automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve
- Water Resistance: 300 meters / 1000 feet
- Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel with blue aluminum insert
- Crystal: Sapphire with Cyclops over date
- Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with solid end links and gold center links
- Clasp: Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with diver extension
The Caliber 3135, one of Rolex’s most revered movements, is a workhorse—accurate, reliable, and serviceable. Though newer Rolex models have upgraded to the 3235, the 3135 remains a benchmark in automatic calibers. It hacks, it hand-winds, and it’s COSC-certified. In real-world use, it rarely drifts more than a couple seconds a day.
Wearing the Bluesy: Personal Reflections
Slipping on the 16613 “Bluesy” feels like donning a piece of watch history wrapped in Riviera cool. There’s a surprising versatility to it. Yes, it’s dressier than a traditional steel Submariner, but it’s no less capable. I’ve worn it with a linen shirt and loafers on a warm day in Lisbon, and it shined. I’ve also paired it with a wetsuit, and it looked right at home underwater.
It’s also incredibly photogenic—no camera does justice to the way that sunburst blue dial plays with the light. The Oyster bracelet, especially on earlier hollow-link versions, wears lighter than modern Rolexes and adds a vintage charm. And perhaps most importantly, the watch feels special. Every time you check the time, you’re reminded you’re wearing something of enduring value—not just monetarily, but aesthetically and culturally.
Value and Market Comparison
The 16613 sits in a compelling position in the market. While the modern ceramic 116613LB (now 126613LB) brings updated tech and a glossier ceramic bezel, many collectors find the aluminum bezel and vintage proportions of the 16613 more charming—less bling, more soul.
As of 2025, clean examples of the 16613 with full box and papers range from $11,000 to $15,000, depending on condition and dial variant. For that price, you’re getting a Submariner with genuine gold, a legendary movement, and one of the most recognizable colorways in Rolex history.
Alternatives like the Tudor Black Bay 58 or Omega Seamaster Diver 300M offer capable, modern dive watches with personality—but they don’t carry the prestige or resale security of a Rolex. The “Bluesy” stands out as both a collector’s piece and a daily wearer—one that ages gracefully while steadily appreciating.
Final Verdict: Who Is the 16613 For?
The Rolex Submariner 16613 “Bluesy” is for the watch lover who wants a Submariner with flair, a bit of sunshine, and a whole lot of heritage. It’s not for minimalists or ceramic purists—but for those who appreciate Rolex’s golden era of design and want a dive watch that does more than dive.
Buy it if:
- You want a Submariner with character and charisma
- You appreciate two-tone watches and classic proportions
- You’re looking for a collectible Rolex that’s still wearable daily
Consider alternatives if:
- You prefer full steel or more understated designs
- You want the latest in movement technology and materials
In summary, the Rolex Submariner 16613 “Bluesy” is not just a timepiece—it’s a statement. A golden relic of an era when Rolex wasn’t just about incremental updates but bold expressions. It’s as luxurious as it is capable, and in a sea of sameness, it still gleams with distinction.